What We Fix
Cooktops come in three technologies and each fails in its own way. We service gas, induction and electric cooktops across the high-end brands:
- Gas burners that click without lighting, or will not click at all
- Weak, uneven or yellow flame, or a burner that will not simmer
- Induction zones that will not power on or cut out under load
- Electric elements that stay cold or will not modulate
- Fault codes, dead control areas and touch panels that miss input
- Continuous clicking after a spill and failed spark modules
Common Problems and Typical Causes
On gas cooktops, the two most common calls are a single burner that will not light and every burner clicking at once. A single dead burner is usually a fouled electrode, a misaligned cap or a clogged port. All-burner clicking is typically moisture or a spill that has worked under a knob and shorted a switch, which clears up once the switch is cleaned or replaced. On induction, a zone that powers off under load often has an overheating coil, a blocked cooling fan or a failing element board. Electric elements that stay cold point to the element itself or its switch. Because gas is involved, we verify safe operation on every gas cooktop repair.
Symptom, Likely Cause, and What We Do
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Our Fix |
|---|---|---|
| One burner will not light | Fouled electrode, cap or clogged port | Clean or replace the igniter, realign the cap, clear the port |
| All burners click | Moisture or shorted switch under a knob | Dry and clean or replace the affected switch |
| Induction zone cuts out | Overheating coil, fan or element board | Test the zone and cooling, replace the failed part |
| Electric element cold | Element or infinite switch failure | Test and replace the element or switch |
On gas cooktops, altitude is the first thing we rule out and it catches a lot of Longmont kitchens. At roughly 5,900 feet there is meaningfully less oxygen per cubic foot of air than the sea-level default a burner is jetted for, and equipment installed straight out of the crate without the correct orifices will never burn properly. The signs are consistent: a lazy flame with yellow tips instead of a crisp blue cone, soot on the underside of pans, burners that light slowly or drop out at a low simmer. None of that is a worn-out burner. It is a setup problem, and correcting the jets and the air-shutter adjustment fixes it without a parts bill.
Induction faults are widely misread in the opposite direction. A zone that heats and then cuts out is usually protecting itself rather than failing. The power electronics live under the glass and vent through a fan and a filtered intake, and when that intake is blocked with dust or the fan bearing has dried out, the zone throttles back or drops out and returns once it has cooled. That behaviour reads exactly like a dying board, but the fix is often an airway or a fan at a fraction of the cost. The other frequent non-fault is cookware: a pan that fails the magnet test simply will not be recognised, and no repair will change that.
Brands We Service
We repair Wolf, Thermador, Gaggenau, Miele, Bosch, Viking, Dacor and Jenn-Air cooktops. See the full brand list.
Cooktop Zone Down?
Book a diagnostic and get every burner working. Diagnostic and travel fees, if applicable, are confirmed before the appointment and before repair approval.